10 Best Backcountry Stays in the Canadian Rockies
I'm all for wilderness, camping and nights spent in the fresh air, under a sea of stars. But, let's be honest, I also love home-cooked meals over a wood stove, a cozy bed and hard walls that keep out the wind and rain better than any tent could.
I'm all for wilderness, camping and nights spent in the fresh air, under a sea of stars. But, let's be honest, I also love home-cooked meals over a wood stove, a cozy bed and hard walls that keep out the wind and rain better than any tent could.
When you can combine the two, you get the most amazing experience, and thanks to some incredible lodging in the region, we have many options to choose from in the Canadian Rockies. When I'm lugging extra photo gear, not having to pack the tent and cooking supplies is an added bonus.
Here are some of my personal favourites, in no particular order:
1. Skoki Lodge
Skoki Lodge. Photo by Paul Zizka Photography.
Possibly one of the most magical of backcountry lodge experiences, Skoki Lodge has a charm unto itself and is chock full of history. Accessible in both winter and summer, it gives backcountry skiers the hikers a great base for exploring the famous Skoki region.
2. Scott Duncan Hut
Scott Duncan Hut. Photo by Paul Zizka Photography.
One of the lesser-visited huts in the chain of alpine huts run by the Alpine Club of Canada, Scott Duncan Hut can be linked to other huts on the Wapta/Waputik icefields, or accessed on its own via Sherbrooke Lake.
3. Shadow Lake Lodge
Shadow Lake Lodge. Photo by Paul Zizka Photography.
Now owned and operated by the Alpine Club of Canada, Shadow Lake Lodge has a series of cabins and communal hanging out/dining cabins for guests to enjoy. Nestled in a beautiful meadow, it's the perfect base for day hikes in the region.
4. Lake O’Hara Lodge
Lake O’Hara Lodge. Photo by Paul Zizka Photography.
I hear Lake O'Hara Lodge is booked out far in advance, and for good reason. For one, you can actually take a bus to it (whereas most of the other options here require some hiking or skiing). Situated near the shore of beautiful Lake O'Hara, the lodge has a longstanding tradition of backcountry hospitality and is the gateway to some of the best hiking in all of the Canadian Rockies.
5. Elizabeth Parker Hut
Elizabeth Parker Hut. Photo by Paul Zizka Photography.
Named after one of the founders of the Alpine Club of Canada, Elizabeth Parker Hut is also accessible via the Lake O'Hara bus. It is one of the club's most accessible huts and features a wonderful sleeping/communal area (with a wonderful wood stove), kitchen, and access so remarkable hiking and skiing terrain.
6. Peyto Hut
Peyto Hut. Photo by Paul Zizka Photography.
This alternate perspective on Peter and Catharine Whyte (Peyto) Hut shows just how much snow and ice surrounds it. Located on the Wapta Icefield, adventurers can link it together with the other Wapta Huts or use it as a base to climb nearby peaks.
7. Mount Assiniboine Lodge
Mount Assiniboine Lodge. Photo by Paul Zizka Photography.
Built in 1928, Assiniboine Lodge was the first backcountry ski lodge in North America. It can be accessed via ski, hike or helicopter, and gives backcountry enthusiasts access to one of the region's most famous views: Mt. Assiniboine, considered the "Matterhorn" of the Canadian Rockies.
8. Bow Hut
Bow Hut. Photo by Paul Zizka Photography.
See that beige speck on the rocky outcropping beneath the glacier? That is the incredible Bow Hut, another Alpine Club of Canada hut. This is one of the gateways to the Wapta Traverse and various mountaineering objectives, but it is also a great destination for an overnight hike, and perhaps a sunset stroll up "The Onion."
9. Abbot Pass Hut
Abbot Pass Hut. Photo by Paul Zizka Photography.
If you truly want a backcountry experience like no other, Abbot Pass Hut, nestled at the pass between Mts. Victoria and Lefroy, offers a memorable stay. Originally built in 1922 to house early mountaineers, today hikers also enjoy the stone hut (though it does involve some scrambling to get there!). Update: Parks Canada slope remediation work continues at Abbot Pass Hut and the ACC is not taking summer bookings at this time.
10. Neil Colgan Hut
If I had to pick a favourite, Neil Colgan Hut might be it – the highest permanent structure in Canada at 9,700 feet. It is truly a mountaineer's hut, with no straightforward way of accessing it, and gives you access to the famous ten peaks. Many memorable nights have been spent here under the stars.
Neil Colgan Hut. Photo by Paul Zizka Photography.
There are many more where that came from. In particular, check out the full listing of Alpine Club of Canada huts on their website.
Behind the Image: Emergence
I took this black-and-white on a shooting marathon at Mount Assiniboine a few years ago. I only had two nights in the area and the conditions were so good I went without sleep to make the most of the opportunity. I went everything over those 48 hours: in thunderstorms, fresh snow, aurora borealis, inversions, fogbows, you name it. And it was late September, that time of year when the larches are glowing gold – arguably the best time of year for photography in Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park.
I took this black-and-white on a shooting marathon at Mount Assiniboine a few years ago. I only had two nights in the area and the conditions were so good I went without sleep to make the most of the opportunity. I went everything over those 48 hours: in thunderstorms, fresh snow, aurora borealis, inversions, fogbows, you name it. And it was late September, that time of year when the larches are glowing gold – arguably the best time of year for photography in Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park.
After a night shooting the northern lights and running around to try to find breaks in the cloud cover, I finally decided to return to the Naiset Huts to catch a nap since I could no longer escape the clouds. Just as I was about the enter the cabin (which was already nearly full of fast-asleep people), I spotted a few stars glowing above the mountains. No rest for the wicked! I realized the clouds were an inversion and that a sunrise at the Nub (a nearby spot which is the most photographed backcountry location in the Canadian Rockies) could offer great potential.
As I made my way past Assiniboine Lodge, I did a double-take when I caught a glimpse of the pyramid of Mount Assiniboine floating in the dawn sky, all lit up in alpenglow. It was an absolutely incredible sight. I was pretty determined to get up to the Nub, but felt the scene that was immediately available guaranteed an image more unique than anything I could hope for at the popular vantage point higher up.
I set up the tripod, pulled out the long lens, and took a few frames of this scene, as the clouds were constantly swirling. This was my favourite one. The fog below kept the base of the mountain quite dark, while the alpenglow lit up its higher sections. The dark blue sky above bookended the composition, and made it look like the "Matterhorn of the Rockies" was doing a levitation act.
Shot with the Canon 5D Mark III and the Canon 70-200mm f/2.8 IS lens, at ISO 400, 30 seconds, f/11. I often use this image in workshops as an example of the power of compressions and isolation of the long lens in landscape photography. I hope you like the image and the story!